Self catering ski holiday in Samoëns - easy, fun, something for everyone!
Posted on March 06, 2023
This year’s half term family skiing treat was in the gorgeous alpine village of Samoëns, one of the five resorts that make up the fun and expansive Grand Massif ski area.
In total contrast to the excitingly modern purpose built resort of Val Thorens featured in our previous blog post, as a celebration of its youthful 50th anniversary; Samoëns is a traditional village steeped in a rich history.
Gotta love all the fir trees that pepper the Grand Massif slopes :)
Its name comes from a 12th century medieval expression meaning ‘the seven mountains’. Which is why Samoëns inhabitants are traditionally knowns as Septimontains and Septimontaines.
The historic heart of the Giffre Valley, Samoëns became the commercial centre for the region in the 14th century with a weekly market attracting flocks of medieval savoyard buyers and sellers.
A wonderful linden tree – the ‘Gros Tilleul’ was planted in the middle of the village in 1438 and has become the now very visible village emblem at 9.5m wide and 20m tall. It was decorated all over with pretty lights when we were there, and no doubt still is! Very lovely.
Not just a bustling market hub of old, Samoëns is also the historic home of stonecutters (frahans) evidence of which can be seen and enjoyed all around the village.
Commerce, art, and also religious history characterises the region. Samoëns is surrounded by 9 hamlets each of which is home to a historic chapel, all built between the 14th and 17th centuries. The hamlets and corresponding chapel names are Allamands, Verclan, Vallon, Bérouze and Chantemerle.
Another chapel, built in 1687, is to be found in Samoën’s very own alpine botanical garden, Jaÿsinia. This beautiful and significant garden began life in 1906, founded and funded by native Marie-Louise Cognacq Jäy.
Born in Samoëns in 1838, Marie-Louise proved to be one cool 19th century Septimoine chick. She set off to find work in Paris at 16, became the the first saleswoman in clothing department store ‘Bon Marché’, and went on to make a fortune along with her husband in Paris with the famous innovatory department store Le Samaritaine still flourishing today.
The garden is on the site where Marie-Louise herded goats as a 15 year old. It holds more than 5,000 species from five continents including some 4,500 types of alpine flowers and 500 varieties of trees and shrubs. It was designed by another local Louis-Jules Allemand, and enjoys fountains and cascades as well as a landscape of exotic and native flora and fauna.
Since 1936 the garden has been directed by the scientific division of Botany from the National Museum of Natural History. So it really is a live and important scientific site used for ongoing research and development into the world of botanical plants.
As well as the chapel, the garden is also home to the Tornalta castle (12th century) ruins, and the more modern Maison de la Jaÿsubua at the garden’s entrance with a reception area providing information about the garden and the history of its founder.
Marie and Ernest were an impressive couple – enterprising, hard working, and also very generous both to their employees and as very active philanthropists. They formed a foundation which supported social initiatives as well as projects to preserve and celebrate Samoën’s heritage, among other things.
Good old wikipedia tells us 'The couple were childless. In 1920 they gave the Académie Française a fund of 100 million francs to reward 300 deserving large families each year in an effort to boost the birth rate after the war. In 1922 they added 16 million francs to reward parents aged 35 or older with six children'. What good people. Leaving a legacy of good and healthy vibes which continue to characterise Samoëns.
All so interesting … But … What about the skiing I hear you cry?
Pic of our boarders after some good runs back at Samoëns 1600, top of the Grand Massif Express gondola and main meeting point for lessons etc
Well, it’s fab!! Samoën is a charming (as you can imagine from its history) and also up-to-date buzzy ski resort. It is one of 5 resorts across two valleys that make up the Grand Massif. East to West they are Sixt, Samoëns, Morillon, Les Carroz and Flaine. With Mont Blanc as a back drop. It is gorgeous for sure.
And there is great ‘ski’ for all abilities – 23 greens, 61 blues, 44 reds and 11 blacks over 265km of skiing connected by a reat network of ski lifts - gondola, chair, and button fun! With friendly helpful operators to assist ...
Fun 2 person chair lift to the top of Agate, fave black run with the boys high up in Flaine
Overall verdicts from our Feb half term party follow below. We were a mix of mid-lifer parents, young adults (a trio of 20 year old boys) and a gaggle of mid to late teens. We were 14 in total ranging in ages from 13 to ... let’s just say, early fifties …
So:
Best day and why?
Pretty unanimous response was ski-ing to Flaine from Samoëns. One family did a guided tour of the whole area on the first day which they enjoyed very much - and slept well that night too!
Fave runs and why?
Black fave, especially among the 20 year olds, was Agate – great off piste opportunities and lovely soft snow, as well as an enjoyable challenge it seems! Not to mention back drop of Mont Blanc.
Chamois was also flagged as 'a nice pitch, fun moguls and few other skiers'.
Blue Sairon is nice and wide with an avenue of trees opening out to lovely views. Tourmaline also enjoyable with a good mix of slopes to enjoy.
Red – Fred from the top of Flaine the undisputed winner here – great for carving, lots of space and a good mix of slopes and fantastic views.
Best thing about the village?
Comments covered it’s undisputed charm - 'pretty lights and decorations’ ‘very nice and pretty’, ‘beautiful houses and buildings … nice pedestrian area’, ‘very cute’ ‘pretty and homely’, ‘very friendly’ and ‘it was cool and everything was quite close’. Similarly ‘everything was easy to walk to’.
The food and drink scored highly too in the ‘best thing about the village’ category - ‘plentiful restaurants’ ‘veggie burgers and IPA’, ‘the après ski after a long day on the slopes’, ‘The Place 2 Be is a great pub!’
Best on-slope bar / restaurant?
L’Igloo came out well on this question. It is a fab restaurant with wonderful views, great food and friendly staff. Good vibe! They accommodated all 14 of us for lunch. No problem.
Montana came out well too because of its super chill vibe, uncrowded, beautiful views, lots of sun, great food and crucially very nice wine!
Another favourite was Le Grand Crêt 17 for atmosphere and food.
Fave Aprés ski and why?
The Place 2 Be - ‘busy and lively atmosphere’, ‘cosy and fun’, ‘the football was on’!
La Cannette Burger - ‘such good burgers’, ‘so much choice and very good quality. The IPA there on draft was also very nice’, ‘great selection of chicken, beef and veggie burgers’
Great vin chaud (though the best in our opinion, was to be found at La Cannette) and hot choc options at the aptly named 'L'Après Ski Chez Jeff'. There are outside tables and heaters for a cosy outside après vibe, as well as guest djs to accompany some evenings.
And my favourite answer from Danny, 14:
‘the night at your apartment with everyone because it was fun!' (great vat of curry, chats, charades and quite a lot of Génépi - local very delicious alpine liqueur – strictly for the over 18s of course – Ed)
And asked to complete the sentence ‘my hol in Samoëns was fab because …
‘the ski area is so big so you’re always in different places siing new views’ Olive, 17, intermediate skier
‘I got to ski and have a week of sun!’ Albie, 20, intermediate / advanced skier
‘I was with my family and the skiing was cool’ Danny, 14, intermediate skier
‘spent time with lots of family in a beautiful and relaxed setting’ Clea, Mum 'd'un certain age', expert skier
‘I skied all day and had amazing food’, Zoe, 14, expert skier
‘It was great to be with family and friends doing smething we all love together’, Nic, Dad 'd'un certain age', expert skier
‘it was so great to all be together doing something everyone loves. To debrief over good food and wine in the evenings and enjoy all sorts of fun chats we rarely have at home! The mountain air brings out all sorts of good things …' Kate, Mum 'd'un certain age', forever beginner skier … advanced beginner perhaps!
‘The slopes were exciting and the chalet relaxing’ Oli, 20, intermediate snow boarder
‘I spent quality family time on the slopes as well as going off on some more advanced runs with my cousin. The village was very peaceful and relaxing’ Sam, 20, intermediate / advanced snowboarder
‘I got to ski and snowboard all in one week!’ Milo, 16, intermediate skier and snowboarder
And in response to ‘would have been better if …'
General consensus that more snow and less people would have improved things a little that particular (incredibly busy half term) week.
Some comments from the teens and twenty somethings ref more après and nightlife (obvs - Ed!)
But as you can see, it was pretty much a winner all round for everyone in this family party.
It is so beautiful I can imagine it being a very lovely romantic ski getaway too – there is a heart in the Samoëns logo after all …
That's Mont Blanc!
Fancy giving a bit of self catering in Samoëns a go? It works well in Samoëns. Plenty of shops and restaurants in the village and big Carrefour and Intersport stores for stocking up 5 mins down the road.
Our half term Samoëns clients' review via Richard, dad 'd'un certain age' was: 'I thought the service by Nikki was great ... the location of the apartment was excellent very close to the lift and really nice to walk to lifts every day ... the resort is very nice with great on mountain dining options!! The town was just the right mix of things to do but not crazy night club'
Check out apartments we have to offer in Samoëns here. And give us a call to talk your needs through.
tel + 44 (0)1962 899017
Email [email protected]
Writer Kate Swainson Price
